The Napier

The Napier

210 Napier Street

Fitzroy

Okay, so lets start this blog with the “official” invitation to our next culinary destination:

And so with bellies full and heads light they bid farewell to the generosity that was George’s table, to continue their culinary adventure.

They find themselves meandering, rather clumsily, through mysterious backstreets, lit only by the soft glow of scattered street lamps.  Passing some questionable sorts and staring in wonder at the sudden, rather colonial, surroundings, they find themselves standing on a bleak corner.  Looming in front of them is an old tiled building.  Wishing to find refuge from the night they meekly pile thru the tiny front entrance.

No sooner that they enter they are assaulted with bright colours and warmth (and this is just from the bar man’s shirt!!).  Their eyes adjust and they see before them cozy miss-fit chairs and tables and cluttered bits and bobs that would take you a lifetime to appreciate.

So folks let us explore the “Bohemia” that is Fitzroy, and join me at The Napier on Friday the 12th February 2010 for some more good times!

Must say that my expectations were pretty high and I was really looking forward to the Bohemian ambience (pronounced UM-BE-UNS). I expected this quaint little restaurant/cafe with quiet corners, warm atmosphere, candle lit and cozy. Instead we arrived at a corner pub with pockets of smokers standing outside, drinking pints (they come in pints?) and I quickly rechecked the address. Not quite what I was expecting. But, I thought, inside could be different. And I pictured small tables with quaint Bohemian tablecloths….ahhh….nope…pub outside, pub inside.

Yes it was a cool, fun, characteristic pub with lots of weird and wonderful mementos, photographs and posters everywhere. I especially liked the eye test chart – a great way to see if you are intoxicated. Perhaps this was used before Breathalyzers were invented. A great place to come after work to chill out and chat and definitely a pub above the average pub. Great wine list too, at friendly prices, which was a bonus.

The menu was surprisingly diverse, and so I put aside my reservations and eagerly browsed through the selection. We started with calamari rings, a trio of dips and, because this post is well overdue, I forget if there was another entrée. Hopefully the other Eat Critiquers will step in and add to anything I missed mentioning. The calamari was indeed a treat and perfectly cooked and so very, very fresh. Kudos here as they must have been one of the best I have ever eaten. I was getting excited. Also, the humus tasted home-made and although I am not usually a big fan of this dip, I must admit I did enjoy the one offered at The Napier.  A great beginning and my eagerness for the main I had ordered had me shifting in my seat with anticipation.

And it arrived. My lamb backstrap roast, which I ordered medium rare, appeared in front of me. Good size portions but no finesse in presentation. So to block out the ever-growing pub crowd and sloppy presentation I close my eyes. My first mouthful and my expectations of taste and flavour was sadly disappointed. It was okay, even though the meat was not cooked to my liking, but certainly not inspirational – and thus I returned to the reality of where we were. Oh well, pub grub, dig in don’t wait. Plenty of food and at a good price. If anything I would say stick to the entrees as they exceeded expectations. But the mains were, well, simply put…lack lustre. If you’re hung-over, wearing yesterday’s clothes and absolutely ravenous, this is the place to go and blend into the friendly, casual vibe and get pub grub at it’s best.

Overall though, I was not sure if The Napier really qualified as the kind of foodie journey this group was attempting to take. And so my criticism has to be taken in context of the purpose of this group, and that is to taste food that takes you soaring toward that light that all foodies search for: food nirvana. It’s a big ask for a pub to step up to, even an upbeat and eclectic pub like The Napier. And I am also in angst at the overall Eat Critique score as I feel it does not really give our critique value – I mean how can ordinary pub grub rate only one point less than the exemplary, mouth watery cuisine we had at The Press Club last month?  Perhaps we should consider a separate pub food tour? Or something like a cheap eats group? Whatever it is, I feel we need to make a distinction.

Oh, I can’t wait to get the feedback from the others over this comment…LOL…the kind of hornets nest I am stirring.

Eat Critique Rating: 6.5

INDIVIDUAL SCORES: (6 members)

E = experience. F= food quality, taste & presentation. V = value for money.

Beck:        E – 7.5; F – 6; V – 7         Total individual score: 6.8

Susan:      E – 7.5; F – 8.5; V – 7      Total individual score: 7.6

Tashik:     E – 9; F -6; V – 7         Total individual score: 7.3

Chloe:       E – 7; F – 6; V – 6         Total individual score: 6.3

Jeremy:    E – 7; F – 6; V – 6         Total individual score: 6.3

Svett:        E – 5; F -4; V – 6          Total individual score: 5

The Press Club

The Press Club

72 Flinders Street, Melbourne

And so we begin the journey with our first place being the presitgious Press Club in Flinders street Melbourne. Oh what tantalising morsels awaited us as we decided to order the Symposium “Inspirations from Greece” with complementing wines. A big ask, as this little beauty of 7 courses with matching wines comes at the price of $175 per head. Damn right we’re taking this gastronomic quest seriously! Our appetising expedition starts with a trio of tidbits matched, I must say, perfectly with Champagne. And yes I do mean champagne and not a sparkling. This liquid sensation was a Devaux Blanc de Noirs, from Bar-Sur-Seine in France, which is from the Champagne-Ardenne region. For the ill informed about the light golden, bubbly liquid, rule of thumb, it ain’t champagne if it’s not from the Champagne area. I must also add here, the exquisite sensation of those hundreds, nay thousands of soft bubbles dancing upon the tongue playfully was….sublime. Here endeth the bubble lesson and onto the course it complemented…

…a trio of tidbits bought forth, so very Greek and yet, so very avant-garde in their presentation. Delivered on a small wooden plank-like surface we had; Cuttlefish Baklava, delicately thin slices of cuttlefish,pistachio baklava in a citrus dressing sitting atop a layer of pungent jelly; Meze Kalamaki, marinaded white anchovies and octopus on skewers; and Red Pepper, Sardine Vinaigrette, Tsoureki. For me, the Cuttlefish Baklava truly was a sensation, as the crunchy texture of the pistachio baklava with the soft strips of cuttlefish created a riot on the palette with the jelly binding it all together. Spectacular!

Then onto our next set of dishes, some classic chips, served in the classic chip bucket, with a dollop of Tarama (olive oil couc cous) to dip them into. Yes, must say George’s chips are fantastic and a perfect way to pay homage to the humble potatoe. Served with a glass of Koferhof Sylvaner 2008, Alto Adige, Italy. This little wine was my highlight for the evening. A charming fruity crisp palette that worked well with the starchy potatoes. From chips to fish, as the next plate held an array of raw seafood delicacies accompanied by a glass of Markus Molitor Zeltinger Himmelreich Kabinett ‘Feinherb’ Riesling 2002. Um yes, that would be a German wine…what a mouthful. Must say this was the least impressive dish for me as I am a huge sashimi fan.  For me this dish just didn’t outshine any that I had ordered in a good Japanese restaurant. Added to the disappointment was the discovery of  a broken bit of shell under my oyster…but I did not complain, (well, not to the staff), and simply pushed it to the edge of my plate. The seafood itself was absolutely fresh. From cold dishes to warm ,and such superb flavours and aromas.

Our first hot meal was Suckling Pig Baklava served with a perfect piece of crackling. Gold right there my friends. The meat was juicy and bursting with wonderful combination of pistachio and citrus flavours, that blended so perfectly with the pork. Served with a Domaine La Roche Bussiere Grenache 2008, Rhone Valley France. Loved the pork, loved the Grenache but felt the combination between the two did not work for me. Felt like a good robust Pinot Noir would have been a better partner. This was perhaps the most debated meal of the evening as the table was split between the food and wine pairing…made for some interesting feedback.

Next on our plate was Slow Cooked Lamb Neck, Beetroot Feta Dip and Horseradish Pomme Puree. Oh sublime and my mouth was watering before even lifting my fork. The lamb was succulent and almost melted away in your mouth. The slight tanginess of the beetroot and feta was a prefect compliment to the soft buttery lamb. Such comfort food, such delicate flavours and so perfectly matched with a glass of Le Vignes Di Zamo Refosco Dal Peduncolo 2007, Friuli, Italy.

The service at The Press Club was absolutely unsurpassed and we had one waiter for the food and one for the wine. Their introduction to each course and each wine was truly an experience and it is obvious that they too are great food and wine lovers. I have never experienced such passion from staff and hats off to them for they create a wonderful environment and inspire the creative side to your meal.

When we tallied up our scores for the evening, it was with great interest that the Maître d’ looked over our rating and when the value for money scores ranked on the lower scale, she was quick to try change our opinion. Our reasonings for the low score was that one of our group is a tall, well built guy and he was still a tad hungry. The Maître d’ assured us that it was The Press Clubs policy that no-one’s appetite is left feeling unsatisfied. Within minutes our table was bustling with staff and we were served two wonderful desserts on the house.

To say the staff was accommodating is an understatement, they surpassed our expectations and yes indeed, we left with bellies full and hearts warmed. The Press Club is in the upper, upper scale of cost, so be prepared. Value for money? Well I was one of the ones who rated it lower because I felt the price of courses are overly expensive for what you are getting. The food is exceptional, the staff wonderful but the price is what will stop me from becoming a regular. Will I return? Yes. For a special occasion, or for the feeling of being treated and served like royalty and of course added into the equation is that the food was truly tantalising.

Eat Critiques Rating: 7.5 (with a sentimental rating for the extra effort and dessert of 9)

INDIVIDUAL SCORES: (6 members)

E = experience. F= food quality, taste & presentation. V = value for money.

Beck:        E – 7; F – 7; V – 6         Total individual score: 6.7

Susan:      E – 9; F – 8.5; V – 7      Total individual score: 7.5

Tashik:     E – 9; F – 8; V – 7         Total individual score: 8

Chloe:       E – 9; F – 8; V – 7         Total individual score: 8

Jeremy:    E – 8; F – 8; V – 6         Total individual score: 7

Svett:        E – 9; F -7; V – 6          Total individual score: 7.3

Jeremy, Beck and Susan at The Press Club - 3 members of Eat Critique who take their work seriously.

Tashik, Chloe and Svett - the other 3 serious Eat Critiquers. Cheers!

The Press Club sommelier - a source a great vino info.